Florida Box Turtle
(Terrapene carolina bauri)Return to World Chelonian Trust Main Page for more Turtle and Tortoise Information
Related Articles on this web site:
North American Box Turtles (Terrapene) - Tess Cook
Eye Infections in Terrapene - Chris Tabaka DVM
A Natural Shell Repair Example in a Terrapene - Chris Tabaka DVM
Ear Infections and surgery in Terrapene - Chris Tabaka DVM
Carapace Pitting in Terrapene - Darrell Senneke
Copyright © 2003 World Chelonian Trust. All rights reserved
Florida Box Turtle
(Terrapene carolina bauri)
Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina)
Gulf Coast Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina major)
Three-toed Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina triunguis),
Coahuilan Box Turtle (Terrapene coahuila)
Spotted Box Turtle (Terrapene nelsoni)
Desert Box Turtle (Terrapene ornate luteola)
Ornate Box Turtle (Terrapene ornata ornata)
Introduction
The Terrapene species are a group of terrestrial turtles in the
Family Emydidae. Commonly referred to as box turtles, the genus
only occurs in North America (although the Asian turtles from Cuora,
Cistoclemmys and Pyxidea are also called box turtles, but
are unrelated to Terrapene). Of the 10 or so species and
subspecies, only six are seen in captive collections with some regularity, and
they are four of the T.carolina ssp. and the two
T.ornata ssp.
Box Turtle, the common name applied to this group is appropriate, as members of
Terrapene have the ability to close their plastron (bottom shell)
tightly against the underside of their carapace (top shell), presenting would-be
predators with a "box" of hard shell and plates around the edible body.
Evidence of the effectiveness of this protection can be seen on the turtles
themselves. Many wild collected specimens bear bite marks and scratches along
the shell. After unsuccessful attempts to get to the flesh, many predators will
discard the turtle and seek out an easier meal. When the presence of danger is
no longer sensed, a box turtle can then open its shell and resume its routine
with little damage.
Young box turtles, however, are unable to use this defense. They are instead
less domed and more streamlined, adapted for a life of secrecy near water
basins. Ages vary, but a box turtle may be 2-6 years old before the hinged
plastron is functional. Juveniles are shy and rarely stray into the open.
Although considered primarily "terrestrial", box turtles will occasionally, and
sometimes routinely seek a body of water in which to soak for hours to even
days. Some will even spend the hot weeks of summer in and around pond
shallows. Despite their fondness of water, box turtles are generally poor
swimmers, and can drown if water is too deep and there is not provision made to
easily exit any water . The exception to the rule is the Coahuilan box turtles
T. coahuilan, which is considered semi aquatic.
Terrapene sp. have long been kept as pets, and even today they
remain popular and highly sought after. All fare well in captivity, provided
the proper conditions are met. Captives quickly accept their keepers as
non-threatening, and may actually come to enjoy such company. The genus is
equally suitable for beginner and advanced chelonian enthusiasts.
Identification,
Ranges, and Natural History
The box turtles have a range extending much over the eastern and central United
States, and eastern Mexico. Throughout this range are 4 species and many races.
Common Box Turtles Terrapene carolina
This species inhabits eastern America, and is considered the most sought
after of the North American box turtles. Six races, also called subspecies, are
described for the species.
| Eastern Box Turtles T. c. carolina: This is the nominate form, and is also the most variable patterned and formerly the most commonly available. It ranges from Massachusetts west to Illinois, and south to Georgia. Throughout the range, localities can be found from a variety of habitats, including fields, forests, lake margins, and everything in between. The carapace of adults is highly domed, and typically a brown, or black ground color with a variable range of patterns, including but not limited to reticulations, radiating lined, splotches, etc. It commonly attains sizes up to 6.5 inches (16cm), and it has 4 toes on each hind foot. This race is in my opinion the most adaptable and hardy and therefore most suitable for captive conditions. |
|
| Gulf Coast Box Turtles T. c. major: The largest of all living box turtles, this race can attain sizes exceeding 8 inches (20cm). It is very moisture loving and is most often found near or in shallow bodies of water in its' natural range, which includes the inside gulf coast region of western Florida, and areas of southern Louisiana. The Florida localities are the most pure form, and those found in Louisiana are most likely an intergrade with three toed box turtles, but with much T. c. major influence. Gulf Coast box turtles have no particular pattern of their own, but may superficially resemble other races within the specie. Adults however, do often time develop whitish or reddish markings on the face and forelimbs. |
 |
| Florida Box Turtles T. c. bauri: The race is represented only in peninsular Florida, and is perhaps the least commonly available of the U.S. varieties. They are very similarly patterned to ornate box turtles, but are easily identified by the natural range, highly domed carapace, and facial stripes. Florida box turtles are another moisture loving race, and are found in wet areas throughout its' range. Sizes of 6 inches (15cm) are common. It usually bears only 3 toes on each hind foot. |
 |
| Three Toed Box Turtles T. c. trunguis: These are the most commonly seen of the eastern box turtle subspecies. They attain up to 6.5 inches (16cm) in total length, and range throughout much of the central United States, from the Mississippi River Valley west to Texas, and along the southern part of the range, it extends as far eastward as Florida. Of all the T. Carolina races, this is the one most likely to be found away from water bodies, and prefers drier habitats than those previously mentioned. The pattern is light radiating lines on an olive to brown ground color carapace. Males often develop orange, red or yellow markings on the face and forelimbs. Just because of the name, don't think that three toes on each hind foot are the rule, as it may have four! |
 |
| Mexican Box Turtles T. c. mexicana: Very similar to the three toed box turtle in habits and appearance, is the Mexican box turtle, found throughout North Eastern Mexico, especially near streams, and oases. Any in the hands of hobbyists now are those remaining from the 1970's and 80's when the race was imported, but is now rare in captivity however, because of the export ban of Mexican fauna. |
 |
| Yucatan Box Turtles T. c. yucatana: Found in the Yucatan peninsula and Quintana Roo of Eastern Mexico, this is the rarest race of the specie, and is found only in a few zoological collections. It has four toes on each hind foot, and can attain sizes up to 5.5 inches (14cm). |  |
Western Box Turtles Terrapene ornata
The two races of the ornate box turtles are now the two most commonly seen in
collections both in America and Europe. They are the most dry tolerant of all
the box turtles, and are less adaptable to captivity than their eastern
counterparts.
| Ornate Box Turtles T. o. ornata: This is the nominate form of the species, which ranges over much of the central United States, from Eastern Indiana to eastern Texas and Louisiana. In this range, the race prefers irrigated areas, and sandy spots in which to plow into and rest at night. It obtains sizes up to 5.5 inches (14cm) and bears 4 claws on each hind foot. The pattern is of radiating lines on an olive to brown ground colored carapace. The carapace is also less domed on top than the other box turtle species, and its' face and forelimbs are marked with yellow colorations. |
 |
| Desert Box Turtles T. o. luteola: Similarly patterned to the ornate box turtles, but with more radiating lines concentrating on each scute on the carapace. This race inhabits the driest areas of all the box turtles, ranging from western Texas, to Arizona and adjoining Mexico. Up to 6 inches (16cm) |
 |
One of the major reasons
for failure to keep these two subspecies is the misconception that they do not
need a damp environment. While more tolerant of dryness than other
Terrapene, a moist microclimate (hide area) is needed for these as well
as the other Terrapene species. The species can not tolerate
overall wet conditions though, leading to a more difficult to duplicate captive
environment.
Spotted Box Turtles Terrapene nelsoni
These are the rarest in captivity of all the box turtles and are likely to be
seen in only a few advanced zoological collections. The carapace of both races
is an olive-brown to brown color with numerous yellow spots. Adults of T.
n. nelsoni are up to 6 inches (16cm) and T. n. klauberi is
slightly smaller. The natural ranges are in north western Mexico.
We know little of this species and it's care, but is probably similar to
T. ornata.
Coahuilan Box Turtles Terrapene coahuila
Only one race has been described for this species. It was formerly extremely
rare in captivity, but in recent years, captive breeding has increased its
availability to individuals. Coahuilan box turtles are the most aquatic members
of the genus, and adults may attain lengths up to 6 inches (16cm). The carapace
is usually horn colored and basically unmarked. Hind feet bear four toes and
are webbed. T. coahuila are found only in the Cuatro Ciengas
series of streams and water bodies in north eastern Mexico.
Choosing a Healthy Turtle and Where
to Get It
If you have an opportunity to choose which box turtle you get, then consider the following aspects……
Your climatic conditions: Do you want to keep the turtle outdoors year round?
Some species are more sensitive than others. Is your local humidity high or low?
T.ornata has problems adapting to perpetually humid conditions, a
T.carolina has trouble adapting to arid conditions.
Is the animal for breeding or pet purposes? Captive born animals are more
expensive but are more adaptable and usually less problematic than wild caught
animals. They also prove to be more tolerant of handling and are less shy,
resulting in more personable animals. The only advantage to buying wild caught
animals is that you will not have to wait the 4+ years it takes for a hatchling
to reach maturity and this is offset by increased risk of stress induced
ailments. .
In most cases, it is ideal to purchase a captive bred animal for obvious
reasons. Choose a reputable dealer and always remember that what you pay for is
what you get. If someone sells a cheap box turtle, then you aren’t getting the
top quality.
Why go Captive Bred?
Because wild caught box turtles are often plagued with internal parasites,
covered in ticks, and severely stressed. Most that enter the pet trade will die
after just a short period of time. The best and only alternative is captive
bred animals, which are healthier, more adaptable, more personable, and in
general, better pets.
Conservation
Years of over collecting for export, habitat destruction, pollution, high way
road kills, and increased predation on nests and hatchlings by foxes, dogs,
cats, skunks, etc has led to much lower populations than in the past. Areas
which where once plentiful with box turtles are now finding them to be a rare
sight.
The future for these majestic creatures looks grim and one day it may be true
that the only natural habitats left for Terrapene is in national parks. It is
up to captive breeding efforts to preserve the species for future generations to
come to enjoy.
Foods and Nutrition
As a rule, box turtles are omnivorous by nature. In captivity we must duplicate
this by offering a varied diet of assorted fruits, vegetables, invertebrates,
and animal matter. The ratio of vegetable to animal matter is variable upon the
species involved and the age at which the turtles are. It is generally accepted
that the T. carolina species favor more vegetation into
their diet. T. ornata is more carnivorous, and T. coahuila
is almost entirely carnivorous. It is also common knowledge that hatchlings and
juveniles of all species and races eat more animal matter than the adults. All
this information must be factored in when preparing a dietary plan.
Vegetable matter:
The base of any vegetarian meal for any reptiles should be made up of varieties
of feeds with a calcium to phosphorus ratio of 1:1 or greater. Too much
phosphorous in the diet can contribute to metabolic problems (see health
issues).
The following are
good items in which to offer:
Dark leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, mustard greens, collared greens, etc.
are appropriate vegetable matter. Do not offer iceberg lettuce as it has very
little if any nutritional value. Also remember that spinach can be offered only
on occasion as excessive amounts have been linked to kidney problems due to high
Oxalic acid content.
.
Broccoli stems and leaves (but not the floret's), carrot, and beet can be boiled
to soften and cooled and served. Alfalfa sprouts, mung bean, green bean, pea
pods, soy leaves, moistened alfalfa, dandelion greens and flowers, clover, and
hibiscus flowers are all good food items. Please note that while some high
protein vegetables like beans and peas are acceptable in the diet that this
should not be the only thing fed. True tortoises should not be fed these items
as it can lead to a host of problems, Terrapene with their higher
protein requirements can tolerate some in their diet.
Fruits such as strawberries, black berries, raspberries, grapes, tomatoes,
apples, mango, peaches, paw paws and apricots are all eagerly accepted. Offer
banana and kiwi only on occasion because of its exceptionally high phosphorous
content. Terrapene are known to become addicted to bananas,
refusing other foods in favor of them, because of this tendency bananas should
only be fed as a rare treat.
Oatmeal can be moistened and left unsweetened and fed to the box turtles
Animal matter:
Even the most finicky of box turtles will quickly snap at some scurrying
crickets and worms. Adults and especially juveniles seem to enjoy the pursuit
of various insects, including crickets, grass hoppers, mealworms, wax worms,
super worms, red worms, night crawlers, caterpillars, etc. All of these insects
are available from your local pet shop or bait store, or you can buy them bulk
from numerous mail order companies.
Other forms of animal matter include freshly killed minnows, fish slabs, beef
heart, chicken meat and organs, and moistened high quality, low fat dog food.
One thing that I have found to be effective for providing animal proteins and at
a low cost is to buy chicken hind quarters from the local super market. When on
sale, they can be purchased in large bags at "next to nothing", boil the meat
(chicken meat can be fed raw, but it is better to boil it as raw meat lures
insects too quickly and can cause Salmonella), divide into portions and freeze
for later use. By this method, all that is needed is to take a portion out of
the freezer, and let thaw out then serve to the turtles.
Commercial diets:
Several commercial diets are now on the market, and are said to be nutritionally
complete, but should still not make up more than 50% of the dietary intake of
your box turtle. Many Terrapene will even snub the foods and
prefer to eat fresh meals instead.
Vitamin and mineral supplementation:
This is a subject of much controversy, and I have found that it is best to dust
food items with a good multi vitamin and calcium supplement once per week. Do
not provide a supplement with Vitamin D3 if your turtles are kept under natural
sunlight for more then 20 hours per week. The reason is vitamin D3 can cause
problems if given too excessively. This vitamin is necessary for the proper
absorption of calcium and should be supplied to Terrapene being maintained
indoors but is synthesized by reptiles and amphibians subjected to UVB rays
which are given off by sunlight.
Box Turtle Housing
Housing for box turtles is variable and is the options are unlimited in design
as long as basic needs are met. For obvious reasons, those species from drier
habitats (i.e. T. ornata) will need drier overall climates than
those from wetter habitats (T. carolina). Just remember that
Terrapene species are active animals requiring lots of space and
clean conditions.
Indoor Housing
Indoor housing is necessary for the husbandry of young, sick, injured and cold
sensitive species during cool conditions. The indoor terrarium can be simple or
complex based on the keeper’s preferences. For example I maintain my
hatchlings in plastic hardware tubs measuring 2' x 3' x 8" (60 cm x 90 cm
x 20 cm) with a simple moss or moistened paper towel bedding.
All of the land dwelling species require similar enclosures and the following
guidelines apply to all species except T. coahuila. The only
variable is humidity and how wet the substrate is kept. Provide a water dish
large enough for the animals to sit in completely, but shallow and easily
accessible so the turtles do not drown. Box turtles of all species will sit in
water receptacles and soak for hours and even sometimes even days. They also
defecate in the water dishes so be prepared to change often.
As for substrate, you can use cypress bedding (but not cedar or pine), natural
earth, paper towels, sand, smooth river gravels, out door carpeting, newspaper,
moss, leaf litter, etc. How wet you keep the substrate depends on the specie
involved. For example, the eastern box turtles do better on moistened bedding
which raises the terrarium humidity than the more arid western box turtle
species.
The size of the terrarium depends on the size, temperament and number and sex of
the inhabitants. A simple 2’ x 3’ (60 cm x 90 cm) enclosure would easily
house several young box turtles. The same are would only maintain a pair or
trio of tolerant adults, or a single aggressive adult. If more than one male is
to be kept per enclosure the amount of space must be larger than if only a
single male were to be kept. The reasoning is because male box turtles become
aggressive towards each other during certain periods through out the year.
Be sure to provide visual barriers and hiding areas within the terrarium to help
reduce stress and keep the animals inside happy and comfortable. Such places
can be made using driftwood, log shelters available from pet supply carriers,
and even a small cardboard box with a hole cut in the side will do.
Coahuilan box turtles require housing similar to other semi aquatic species such
as red ear sliders, painted turtles, cooters, etc. If you are lucky enough to
obtain a T. coahulia provide it a primarily aquatic terrarium with
a sizable land area. The water depth should be approximately as deep as the
turtle is long and the land area should be made easily accessible to allow for
basking, resting, etc.
Suspend basking lights over the land area and provide a filtration system. Use
a smooth river gravel substrate, and an aquatic plant or two will serve as not
only visual barriers but also a snack.
Heat and Lighting
Most box turtles are active and foraging at temperatures between 60 and 80F.
Temperatures below that will encourage resting and above that may cause
aestivation or a form of dormancy brought on by excessive temperatures.
Lighting in the form of a UV emitting full spectrum bulb should be provided.
Also provide a basking place over one side of the terrarium to allow the
animals to thermo regulate. It is important to keep one area of the enclosure
cooler than under the basking light to prevent dangerous over heating.
Outdoor Housing
I feel that this is absolutely necessary for box turtles even if it can be
offered only a few months of the year. It is especially important for wild
caught animals in order to adapt to captivity, a process which may take many
months or even years.
The period of time in which a pet reptile of any sort can be maintained outdoors
depends on your climate and the specie involved. At my location in Kentucky I
am able to maintain my T. c. carolina colony outdoors for the
entire course of a year because they are native and will hibernate during the
cooler months. Gulf coast and Florida box turtles must be brought indoors
during the winter months however. Those living in warmer area such as southern
Florida would be able to keep any of the U.S. Terrapene sp.
outdoors year round without any problems. Cooler area such as New England and
southern Canada have a shorter period of time in which outdoor maintenance is
feasible. With this in mind we must design a terrarium to keep the ideal
microclimate in which the particular species requires.
A minimum size for an outdoor terrarium in 4’ x 8’. (1.3 M x 2.6 M) Using
treated lumber 2x4s build a sturdy box like frame. To this frame attach a
strong metal mesh such as 0.5˝ x 0.5”, or 1 inch hexagon netting (depending on
the size of the turtles to be kept inside) along the sides. The set up should
be approximately 3' tall. Affix a hinged wire lid to the top of this unit and
it will be ready for modifications to provide the ideal microclimate. Remember
to sink the walls of the terrarium into the ground to a depth of at least 1’,
leaving 2’ of the unit extending above ground. To get in, simply open the lid
and step over the walls.
Inside be sure to provide a hide box, a sizeable but shallow and easily
accessible water receptacle, and a feed dish. You can also decorate with old
tree stumps, stones etc.
To establish a preferred habitat, look at the preferences of the species in mind
and the climate you have. For example, in my climate, which is rather wet, I do
not need to provide any further modifications for my T. c. carolina
specimens. For T. ornata however, it is necessary to cover the
terrarium lid with a tarp or metal sheets to keep out excessive rain. If you
live in an area that is excessively hot and dry (such as area of the American
south west) it is important to put the terrarium in a shady location. The more
moisture loving biotypes like T. carolina ssp. would also benefit
from having a mister and sprinkler system installed in this type of climate.
If you want a more elaborate set up, then feel free to modify the units even
more or even design a whole new housing system. Just remember that the walls
need to extend below the ground surface or else some box turtles may dig
themselves out. Also remember that some specimens will easily scale a wire mesh
fence if a lid or overhang isn't provided. Water and shaded areas must be
available at all times.
Hibernation
Hibernation is a period of dormancy brought on by cool temperatures and is
commonplace for all reptiles and amphibians from the more temperate areas
throughout the world. The eastern, three toed and most specimens of the ornate
biotypes will hibernate during the winter months. Other species and races will
also go dormant during the passage of cold fronts but not go into a full
hibernation.
Many times, during late fall and winter even those box turtles kept indoors and
warm will attempt to dig in for a long seasonal rest period. They will stop
eating and will become quite inactive for weeks or even months at a time. If
your box turtle exhibits this behavior, then you may want to consider
hibernating it. Below are some guidelines for natural and artificial
hibernation that you will need.
Natural Hibernation
This is most feasible with native biotypes. For example, I allow my eastern box
turtles to hibernate outdoors every year. Starting in October or November, they
will dig in to soft earth approximately 4 inched below surface level. Atop the
sleeping turtles I throw down several inched of fallen leaves and straw, which
insulates, keeps out the frost, and prevents the ground from drying out. They
remain in this state until March or April when the warm spring rains draw them
out. This method proves to work equally well with three toed and ornate box
turtles in the covered terrariums.
Artificial Hibernation
Because of some of the potential problems associated with natural hibernation
(such as the dormant turtles being discovered by rats, etc), many keepers with
smaller collections utilize artificial methods to cool the turtles.
The most common method is to stop feeding the turtles 2 weeks before entering
them into dormancy and soaking them daily in warm water to encourage defecation
and complete digestion of food in the gut which could possibly spoil and kill
the animal. Then turn off all heating devices in the terrarium and reduce the
photo period to encourage the box turtles to try to brumate.
When the activity is obviously greatly reduced or absent, place the turtles in a
plastic container such as a Rubbermaid shoe box with wholes drilled in the
side. In this box should be some slightly moistened moss. Place the lid on
this and secure it tightly, then put it in a refrigerator set at 59F. Though
the box turtles inside may scratch around and seem restless, they will calm down
and enter the winter rest. Over the period of a week or more, lower the
temperature inside the refrigerator two degrees per day to a low of 40-42F.
After a month or two the temps should be slowly raised until they reach 60F at
which time the turtles can be removed from the refrigerator and allowed to warm
up to room temperature. At this time they should begin to awaken and scratch
around inside the box. Take the turtle out and set it in room temperature water
so it can drink and further awaken.
Remember to periodically check on the turtle through out hibernation and the
awakening period to ensure it does not dehydrate, or worse.
Why Hibernate?
A hibernation period is necessary for biotypes from cooler areas to become
fertile and encourage sexual activity, which occurs directly after the cool down
period. Although many keepers say it is not, I have found it to be necessary
for many box turtles especially those that have been wild caught to survive
captive conditions. Keeping a turtle awake when its’ ready to go dormant is
stressful and results in low weight, unhappy turtles. If it wants to go
dormant, then my philosophy is “let it”.
Breeding
Breeding members of Terrapene is generally unproblematic. After a
winter cooling period and period of reduced lighting (this will suffice for may
varieties) or hibernation (for biotypes from colder regions), the box turtles
become fertile and ready to mate. A male will usually circle the female biting
at her shell or legs until she becomes thoroughly “interested” and allows for
copulation, at which time the male mounts the female and mates with her.
Six to eight weeks later or so, the female will seek a sandy or area to nest.
She usually digs a flask shaped whole about 2 to 3 inches into the soil and
deposits between 1 and 8 eggs. Before laying, she may dig several holes called
“false nests” for unknown reasons. It may be to deter predators from an actual
nest or maybe just be because the ground in this area is not to her liking.
After deposition, the female fills in the hole, and packs the ground on top of
it smooth using her carapace. In a natural setting the eggs would take 70 or
more days to hatch, with some late season hatchlings actually over wintering
inside the nest.
The sex of the babies will depends on the temperature at which the eggs are
incubated. Eggs should be incubated between 74 and 82 degrees, higher temps
produce primarily females, while lower temps produce mostly males.
If you discover a box turtle nest, it is advisable to carefully remove them from
the ground and bring them in for artificial incubation. Fresh eggs within 24
hours can be moved without causing problems for the embryos. If the nest is
more than a day old though, it is important not to turn or roll the egg which
may result in the drowning or detaching of the embryo from the top of the egg.
I recommend lightly marking an X the top of the eggs with a pencil to ensure you
do not roll them.
Place the eggs in a plastic tub filled partly with moistened vermiculite. Bury
them approximately 2/3 into the material and put a lid with pin holes in it on
the container. The lid should allow air to enter but should also hold in
moisture. If the eggs begin to dent or dry out, moisten the vermiculite further
and this usually corrects the problem.
After 2 ˝ to 3 months the eggs should hatch into little box turtles. Don’t be
alarmed if it takes a full day or even up to a week for the hatchlings to fully
emerge from the eggs. Just be sure they are kept moist and do not dehydrate.
After emerging from the eggs, the hatchlings should be moved to a sterile
terrarium with a moistened paper towel bedding. They will still have the
remnants of the egg yolk sac on them for several days. It is crucial this does
not get busted or does not dry out otherwise the turtle may be scared or even
killed. If it looks like the yolk sac is drying out, you may want to gently
apply a little bit of petroleum jelly to it.
The hatchlings will survive the first few days on left over yolk and may not
feed for a period of time. Once this is absorbed, care for the babies as
usual. They will soon begin to eat voraciously and grow.
Common Ailments
Although very hardy and adaptable, box turtles can still develop problems. The
following describes some of the more common ailments and their treatments. If
even after treatments the ailments continue to worsen or if new symptoms
develop, it is advisable you take the animals to a qualified veterinarian.
Swollen eyelids and/or peeling skin: this is often caused by acute vitamin A
deficiency. The problem occurs most often in young animals and those fresh out
of hibernation. The first indication is swollen eyelids. Advanced cases result
in peeling skin, inability to open eyes, and even death. If caught early, oral
doses of Vitamin A will usually fix the problems. Advanced cases require
Vitamin A injections to reverse the problems, but the best medicine is
preventative precautions, by offering a well-balanced, variable diet with proper
supplementation. This is complicated by the fact that Vitamin A excess is often
misdiagnosed as a Vitamin A shortage in which case injections will only worsen
the problem.
Obesity: this is very common in adult box turtles and is apparent when the
animal becomes so obese it can no longer use its hinged plastron effectively.
By switching to a more lean diet and reducing the quantity fed . Obesity can
lead to respiratory, cardiovascular, and kidney and liver problems if it is not
taken care of.
Respiratory diseases: these are a common place when a western box turtle is
introduced to a humid climate, or when an eastern box turtle biotype is
introduced to a dry climate. Clogged or runny nostrils, wheezing, and foaming
around the mouth and nostril are common symptoms. The most common reason for
respiratory problems is problems with humidity and temperatures. By isolating
the animal and correcting these problems, the ailment should correct itself.
Other problems may also cause respiratory problems including infections, which
require more advanced treatment in the form of antibiotics. , Antibiotics should
only be administered under direction of a vet familiar with Reptiles. .
Ticks: This is another common problem related to wild caught reptilians. Small
ticks may be seen in between the scales or in other soft parts of the box
turtles. Using a commercially available ectoparasite spray intended for
reptiles, mist the animal and use tweezers to pick off any dead ticks or any
that aren’t killed. Be sure to also get the head out with the tick as well.
Endoparasites: This includes intestinal worms, coccidian, nematodes, amoebas
etc. Endoparasites are very prominent in wild caught animals and are easily
spread throughout all other animals in the terrarium with the infected specimen.
Treatment for nematodes is a changing field, it is best to treat your animals
only under direction of a veterinarian. While Terrapene respond
well to both Panacur and Flagyl it should be noted that dosage information
available on the Internet or in hobbyist books is often dated and potentially
dangerous, please leave drug advice to trained professionals.
Turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at www.chelonia.org. Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.
If you like this care sheet please be aware that the author, Steve Zuppa, has a book in preparation on North American Box turtles.
www.chelonia.org - World Chelonian Trust
Return to World Chelonian Trust Care Sheets
World Chelonian Trust
PO Box 1445
Vacaville, CA
95696
